I love those holiday gift sites that try to point you to the perfect gift by personality type. The Olympic Peninsula and Olympic National Park could create a website like that as they seem to have a little something for every age and every interest, which would make it ideal for a trip with a group of friends or multi-generational family. Cute cottage communities for the shopper; bitty and big bodies of water for the boater; easy and endless trails for the trekker; and varied and vast vistas for the hard to please.
Getting there: Olympic National Park is huge and takes up most of the Olympic Peninsula. There are several different access points around the perimeter of the park but the main visitor center is on the north side just outside of Port Angeles. Since we were starting in Woodinville (north of Seattle and east of Olympic National Park) we decided on a strategy of starting at the north end and then circling the park counter-clockwise. Leaving Woodinville the most direct route (though as it turned out, definitely not the fastest) was to cross the Puget Sound on the Edmonds-Kingston ferry. The queuing and loading process took much longer than the ferry ride itself and it was a bit expensive because of our RV size, but it was an adventure to take our first ferry trip with the RV and a scenic way to travel.
Our first stop was Port Gamble, whose main street is lined with historic buildings built in the late 1800s. We arrived late in the afternoon, so only had time to take a quick look at the historical markers; visit a couple of local gift shops sporting cards, clothing and local art; glance at the menus of local restaurants and visit the city park for a great view. From there we went to our camp site at Kitsap Memorial State Park on the east shore of the Hood Canal.
We got up the next morning and headed for Poulsbo as Doug’s family said we should be sure to check out Sluys’ Bakery there. Baked goods? Yes please, because I fully support baking the world a better place! The town was founded in 1880 by a Norwegian immigrant and today maintains a Scandinavian theme. It is very Velkommen.
Sluys Bakery is easy to find by following your nose to fresh baked bread (bought some) and delicious pastries (bought two). Doug tried a pastry with pecans and I had the “Viking Cup” (a cinnamon role filled in the center with cream cheese).
Poulsbo 
Sluys’ Bakery
We walked, treats in hand, to the port of Poulsbo which is filled with yacht’s, sailboats, houseboats and rowboats. The park overlooking the port has a covered gazebo and multiple benches that line the waterfront paths, perfect for people-watching and pastry eating. I had intended to eat half of my Viking cup and save half, but I was utterly powerless against its flavor!
From Poulsbo we went north to see Fort Flagler which was built in the 1800s in a strategic location at the tip of a peninsula to defend the entrance point from the Pacific Ocean to Seattle via the Strait of Juan de Fuca . None of the military buildings were open (maybe due to Covid?) so we hiked to the bunkers and gun placements. Then we went along the shoreline as the map seemed to indicate a lighthouse, which we never really saw. There was a bit of a beach but we didn’t stay because we were eager to get to Olympic NP and Hurricane Ridge for some afternoon vista views and hiking. Unless you’re a huge military buff, I wouldn’t add Fort Flager to my must-do list.
Once arriving at Port Angeles and heading up the road to Hurricane Ridge we were disappointed to see a big sign saying that the Hurricane Ridge parking lot was already full and to expect major delays – so it was on to plan B; to go scout out the small campground we had found just west of Port Angeles on the Lyre River. We managed to grab the last one of 11 camping sites, a great spot right next to the river!
There’s a small trail that leads out of the Lyre River campground to a beach along the shore of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. The dirt and pine needle covered trail is well groomed. I’m not sure if it was the time of day or the tall tree growth but personally, I got a Blair Witch vibe for the first ½ mile. As we continued, though, Bailey became really playful running past us up the trail, running back, and then kneeling down on her front paws with her tail wagging as she jumped side to side wanting to play. She did this multiple times which made me laugh and forget about the Blair Witch. The trail ended at the point where the Lyre River ends at the Strait with a rock-filled beach and long shoreline views.
Lyre River 
Juan de Fuca
We got up early the next day to make sure we could get a parking space at Hurricane Ridge. The 17 mile drive from Port Angeles weaves in and out of hills providing great views from the front seat. There were only a couple of cars in the parking lot when we arrived so the trails were tranquil. Several small loops extend from the visitor center including a paved loop. Doug has an app that allows him to point his phone at peaks and identify them by name. I have never seen so many peaks identified in single shot – peak after peak and layer upon layer. It’s in these places – that have been here so long before me and will remain so long after – that time seems to slow and then stop as I try to absorb the scene so vast that it’s impossible to capture well in any photo or describe with any words. If we had time for nothing else in the park, these views would have made the trip worthwhile.
Hurricane Ridge
We drove back down towards Port Angeles and then to Crescent Lake and Marymere Falls. This out and back trail to the falls is flat and wide enough to walk 4 abreast. The ferns flourish and the trees show off magnificent root systems. The trail passes over a bridge and then continues up several flights of wooden stairs for a great view of the two-tiered falls. To the east of the trail head is a boat ramp and dock that leads to the shore of Crescent Lake. It’s worth a quick walk over. The day we were there the royal blue water, bled to turquoise and then transitioned to completely clear near the shoreline.
Marymere Falls
Crescent Lake 
In just the first two days we experienced quaint towns, beautiful vistas, fun hikes, and pretty mountain lakes. Olympic Peninsula was so far checking all the boxes!
