During our first visit to the Olympic National Park in 2020 we visited the top sites and they’re phenomenal, so I highly recommend those if you’ve never been (see post here and here). I said it then, and I’ll say it again, there’s so much to see and do in the area that we couldn’t do it justice in the little over 4 days we were there. We went back to the park in late fall of 2021 and if you’ve been there once before, here are 10 exploration ideas for a return visit.
HOW WE TRAVELLED TO THE OLYMPIC PENNINSULA
Both times we’ve taken the ferry over which is a little adventure (especially in an RV) unto itself. Prior to the ferry we made a last minute stop on Whidbey Island to see Doug’s cousin Denise, her husband Brian, daughter Elena, Aunt Marilyn and Uncle Dean. Despite our rudeness in calling them the same day we hoped to see them, they were amazing hosts and we really enjoyed catching up with everyone. Not to mention, their location right next to Puget Sound is such a pretty location and the day was beautiful.
Before boarding the ferry from Whidbey Island to Port Townsend the next morning, we hiked through the rare old-growth stands of Douglas-fir, Sitka spruce, and western red cedars featured at South Whidbey State Park.
Arriving after dark on the Olympic Peninsula, we stayed (for the first time ever) in the 7 Cedars Casino parking lot in Sequim (pronounced “skwim”). Surprisingly, the parking lot was quiet (far from the casino), some spots even had power. Whad a nice meal with strong cocktails, got a $5 voucher at the casino and ended up winning $11 at the slots! I still prefer public land, a campground or an RV park to something this urban, but it was much better than expected!
#1 WALK THE DUNGENESS SPIT
When you tell people you walked the Dungeness Spit you’ll sound like you pissed off a pirate, but I digress…the Dungeness Spit is a long sand spit (actually the longest natural sand spit in the US) jutting into the Strait of Juan de Fuca at the northern edge of the park. It’s currently a 5 mile hike out to the end where a lighthouse stands and is said to be growing in length about 15 feet per year. We stayed at the campground on a bluff above the spit and enjoyed walking the 1-mile trail that travels along the edge of the bluff with scenic views out over the strait.
#2 CYCLE THE OLYMPIC DISCOVERY TRAIL
Moving west towards Port Angeles we parked at the Siebert Creek/Wild Currant Trailhead and prepped the bikes. This section of the Olympic Discovery Trail is the east central section. The out and back portion we did starts under a canopy of trees on a paved path, but as it gets closer to Port Angeles the section right along the water turns to gravel. This cycling trail is a wonderful way to see the Port Angeles area of the Olympic Peninsula by bike.
#3 HIKE HURRICANE RIDGE
Just south of Port Angeles is the north entrance to the Olympic National Park and the road up to the Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center. See our prior post (link here) if you’ve never been to Hurricane Ridge as you’ll want to take in the view from the visitor center and hike the Cirque Rim and Sunrise View Nature trails. This time around we decided on the hike up to Hurricane Hill. At the far end of the main parking lot we started down the road. The official trailhead was about a 1 mile drive from the main parking lot but RV parking at the trailhead was not accommodated so we got some extra hiking in. The trail is wide and well marked. We were there in the fall and some of the deciduous trees were just beginning to turn. Views vary. We saw pretty pine valleys nestled against rows of mountains, a winding path with yellows and reds beginning to emerge, endless deep valleys, and long flat grasslands with Hurricane Ridge standing tall as if saluting. The trail ends in a definitive top with wonderful 360 degree views.
Don’t ask
#4 RIDE THE LAKE CRESCENT TRAIL
Back out onto the northern edge of the Olympic Peninsula and west of Port Angeles is the Lyre River Campground. We had stayed at this campground the year prior, and this time around we spent hunkered down through several days of cold and rainy weather. I was feeling like I had the flu and Bailey had kennel cough. Doug worked on taxes, so a good time was had by all. I think I spent most of my time complaining. Not every day on the road is a stellar day. We’re living life on the road…grocery shopping, bills, laundry, taxes…and some days the weather sucks, along with my attitude. Like most of life, it’s great but, every now and then it’s not as great as I’d like.
After the weather finally improved, we drove to a nearby trailhead to access the Lake Crescent/Spruce Railroad Bike Trail. This is another portion of the 134-mile-long Olympic Discovery Trail. It follows the former Port Angeles Western Railroad grade along the lake’s northern shoreline. The railway was built during World War I in an effort to transport spruce for making aircraft – though by the time they completed the railroad and got the mill up and running the war had ended! This trail is flat and paved. It passes through McFee Tunnel and over several wooden bridges, following the lake’s shore. Be sure to stop at the beautiful Devil’s Punch Bowl alongside the trail at about the half way point.
Devil’s Punchbowl
#5 HIKE THE SALT CREEK STRIPED CREEK TRAIL
After those 3 days of cold and heavy rain, we had low batteries so moved to Salt Creek Campground for full hook-ups to recharge the RV and ourselves. This is a scenic campground where every spot has water views and the sunsets here were soft and comforting.
Several trailheads are in this area and we chose Striped Creek Trail. This is the kind of trail you expect in the northwest. Thick green growth, massive ferns, moss on all the rocks, roots fighting for every inch of space, and greenery springing from every crevice and cut down stump. At the top of the mountain, there are peek-a-boo views of the Juan de Fuca Strait and on a clear day, like the one we had, our old friend Mount Baker (link here for more info on visiting Mount Baker). It’s not very long before the trail begins its descent with continuous views of the Strait in the distance.
Salt Creek 
Striped Creek Trail
Mt. Baker 
#6 EXPERIENCE THE SALMON CASCADES, FALLS AND ANCIENT GROVES OF THE SOL DUC RIVER VALLEY
We moved from the north edge towards the interior of the Olympic National Park driving south on Sol Duc Hot Springs Road to its end at the Sol Duc Campground and Sol Duc Falls Nature Trail trailhead. Along the road to Sol Duc Campground, we pulled over at the Salmon Cascades and spent an enormous amount of time cheering on the salmon making their journey upriver. Watching the salmon is like a sporting event – with a crowd of onlookers cheering when a fish successfully makes the leap or gasping when a fish misjudges and slaps the side of a rock as it attempts the leap or shaking heads in disappointment when it has to stop and turn back down river to rest up for another try. We saw people covering their eyes with their hands but peering through nonetheless not wanting to see any fish fail but not wanting to miss the cheers of success either. It’s amazing what these fish have to go through just to lay and fertilize eggs for their survival. That expression, “the struggle is real” probably came from someone watching these fish. Seeing this event makes you think twice about eating this fish. Why, oh why, does salmon have to be so damn tasty! (Hey, I said it made me think twice…I didn’t say it curbed the urge altogether!)
Sol Duc Falls Nature Trail can be found at one end of the Sol Duc Campground. Big trees, tons of mushrooms, and a waterfall ending make this walk fun. It actually became a game to see how many types and colors of fungi we could find. There was no end to the entertainment and Doug fingered fungi all day!
Trail to Sol Duc Falls
Sol Duc Falls
After a night in the Sol Duc Campground, we were back on the road. The Sol Duc Ancient Grove is another stop along the Sol Duc Road and Doug couldn’t resist exploring another stand of big trees. This walk is fast, flat and pretty…perfect for your morning cup of coffee. After that rejuvenating walk among the giants we were back on our way out to the main road (highway 101) to head towards the western-most edge of the Olympic Peninsula and Olympic National Park.
Sol Duc Ancient Grove 
#7 HIKE THE OZETTTE TRIANGLE
Ozette Lake Campground is near the northwest corner of the Olympic Peninsula and provides access to the northern portion of the strip of the Olympic National Park that runs almost uninterrupted along the full western coastline of the Olympic Peninsula. The campground does not have any hookups but the sun was out and the solar energy recharged the RV and me. I was able to blow-dry my hair, paint my toenails and soak up some vitamin D. Doug took out the pack raft and paddled the lake.
The next day we started fairly early to complete the 10 mile hike known as the Ozette Triangle. The first leg of this triangle consists mostly of wooden walkways. Not only is it fun to photograph but there’s something about the cadence of your footsteps as you walk these wooden planks that is soothing….like wooden wind chimes.
At the end of the first leg of the hike you meet the beach. Timing your arrival at the beach to coincide with low tide is important as once the tide comes in it can be difficult to make this second leg of the journey. Now, most of the beaches we’ve visited at the Olympic Peninsula (Rialto, Kalaloch, etc) are either pretty white sand; my-dog-loves-em beaches or great cairn rock stacking beaches, but this beach was neither. Tide pools (have plenty of those on northern CA beaches) are great as well, but this beach had piles and piles of seaweed covering it. The only option…walk through it; or should I say squish through it?! With each spongy step huge swarms of flies get agitated and rise up. Luckily, the flies have no interest in humans but their presence definitely adds to the ambiance.
About 70% of this 3 mile stretch was squishing through seaweed and pests or picking your way through the rocky shoreline – not the easiest beach walking we’ve done to date. The beach did have pretty north-coast rock structures and some great rope swings, though, which helped to lighten the mood.
At the end of the beach leg of the triangle there is a point featuring a jutting rock that’s worth a climb for its views. Just past the end of seaweed hell lies the beach I was expecting with white sand and nature’s driftwood seats. We enjoyed some lunch here before heading back.
The final leg, much like the first, wanders through more rainforest jungle-like plants along dirt or more raised wooden walkways.
#8 TAKE PHOTOS IN THE HOH RAIN FOREST HALL OF MOSS
Heading south from Ozette and into the park’s interior is the Hoh Rain Forrest and this is must see on your first trip. We’d done a few hikes in the Hoh Rainforest on the 2020 trip so I didn’t feel the need to see the Hall of Moss again, but I have to admit when Doug returned from his walk around, I was disappointed I didn’t go. It’s a fun place to take photographs. It was also fun to see the side-by-side comparison of the same view of the forest from our previous trip in the spring and this trip during the fall.
#9 FIND THE KALOLOCH BEACH TREE OF LIFE
Past the town of Forks, Kalaloch Beach Campground sits on a bluff overlooking the beach. In late September, we had mostly wind and rain but during a quick break in the weather we walked to the famous “tree of life” along the beach just to stretch our legs. Not a bad stop but I’d say the tree is a little over hyped. I actually liked the driftwood along this beach a lot more!
Tree of Life 
#10 TAKE YOUR DOG TO GRAVES CREEK NATURE TRAIL, WYNOOCHEE AND MAIDEN HAIR FALLS
From Kalaloch Beach we drove the North Shore Road around Lake Quinalt and kept moving northeast to the Graves Creek Campground. At the Graves Creek Campground, there’s a short nature walk that was nice and then Doug took a much longer hike up the East Fork of the Quinalt River. That night, though, we had heavy rain and in a campground with trees like this there’s no escaping having huge trees overhead. The rain upon the roof of the RV was not the pleasant pitter-pat sound you might imagine but instead collected in the leaves of the trees above until huge drops eventually thudded manically onto the roof, waking me up 13 times. How do I know? I started getting angry and made a recording like the one below each time I woke, trying to capture the intensity of the rain.
No picture in the video below but I tried to capture the sounds of the rain from inside the RV at night.
The following day we drove out past Merriman Falls and visited the Largest Spruce in the World at the edge of Lake Quinalt before driving south to take the Wynoochee Falls Hike with Bailey. These falls are deafening and spray a ton of water felt from the shore/viewing location. It probably feels pretty good in the summer but after no sleep and waking to another moist morning we didn’t stay as long as Doug probably hoped to.
We saw an unnamed water fall alongside the road on the drive back that nearly upstaged the goal of our next hike – the Maiden Hair Falls. There’s a campground near here but I think it was closed or inaccessible at this time of the year, so we didn’t see a single other car or person. The hike is short but wet. There are several places where the rain we’d been getting left no choice but to tromp through the swampy and flooded trail in order to continue. We found out 2 things: 1, my hiking shoes were not waterproof, and 2, Bailey gets really playful once she’s wet. She ran up the trail ahead of us and then would scamper back full speed when she couldn’t see back to us over the large plants. We leashed her as we neared the falls as the trail is basically cliffside. There’s a wooden bridge that provides a better view of the falls.
After our day of hiking, we were looking for a campsite with no overhead trees since I couldn’t take another sleepless night of drumming water, so Doug initially suggested this boondocking location near the trailhead next to a burned-out car that looked like a crime scene. We were miles from anywhere, had no cell service, hadn’t seen anyone all day…we were not camping here! We moved on down the road and found an open boondocking location in a much prettier parking area/clearing near Wynoochee Lake. The rain continued but in a steadier pitter-pat – sans the wallops! Ahhhh….
Merriman Falls 
Wynoochee Falls
Unnamed Falls 
After 2.5 weeks on the OP, I can finally say I think we did it justice with these additional 10 experiences! I’m not saying I wouldn’t return…as I would. I know there are still more hikes and things to do, but if I don’t get back, I’ll have no regrets.
