From El Paso we continued our route along the Texas border, past Marfa (which we circled back to later) and on to Big Bend Ranch State Park near Terlingua TX. This state park is bordered by the Rio Grande with Mexico a stone’s throw across the river.
Full disclosure on this post, sometimes I’m a good person with a bad attitude and usually when people (and by people, I mean my ever-upbeat and wonderful husband) call me out on it, I’m not proud to say screw ‘em. The reality is sometimes it takes me a day or so (and possibly a vodka tonic) to get over it and remember that I’ve got a lot going for myself – resting bitch face, poor coordination, and sarcasm.
This was my mood going into Big Bend Ranch State Park. Our weather was not great for the first part of this visit and you’ll likely feel my disappointment in this post. What’s more bizarre is on my bad attitude days you’ll see it in my photographs versus Doug’s.
Our drive in was glum. It was cold, rainy, overcast and the sections from El Paso through Marfa to Big Bend Ranch were relatively flat with desert plants that were drab in grey weather, despite the promising hills in the distance.
I’m happy to report that when we reached the state park, the drive definitely improved with sweeping turns through rock formations and the beauty of the Rio Grande River outside the passenger side window. No walls between the US and Mexico here, just rough terrain and sparse border patrol. We had the first of our 4 campgrounds in this park to ourselves, which was actually a bit eerie and disconcerting.
My Pic of the Drive in 
Doug’s
Mine 
Doug’s
The rain let up just long enough the next day for a short hike – the Big Bend Hoodoos Trail – which was not bad, but not impressive, particularly if you’ve seen hoodoos like those in Bryce Canyon (link here).
Mine 
Doug’s
You guessed it – Doug’s
Later that day Doug hiked a box canyon nearby (all his pictures below) that he thoroughly enjoyed and I’m still kicking myself for bah-humbuggin’ it in the RV rather than rallying to hike.
All Doug’s 
By day 3, blue skies returned and my attitude had finally improved…well slightly. On the way to our next campsite, we stopped at Closed Canyon Trailhead for a slot canyon hike with Bailey, which was really great. The walls of this canyon were probably 4 stories high. The dog loved this easy 1.4mile out and back, which made me love it. It’s hard to maintain a bad attitude around a happy dog.
As we continued the drive we hit a 15% slope – the steepest downhill grade we’ve been on in the RV to date! Doug, of course, got a great picture from the top.
The second campsite was flat with few trees but that allowed for a much needed vitamin D soak (and full disclosure, there may have been another cocktail involved).
My view 
Doug’s view from the top 
Next stop was a campground near multiple trails at the east end of the park. I was ready to hike and the weather was spectacular. Getting there we stopped along River Road 170 at a filmmaker’s location. “Streets of Laredo” was filmed here in 1995 and nearby “Fandango” featuring Kevin Costner was filmed in 1985. Those directors are good – the scene looked exactly like a Texas western scene should look. Or is it because they picked this scene that it’s what I picture? Chicken. Egg. Either way, nice spot by the Rio Grande.
We chose the Dome Trail that circles Contrabando Dome, but we missed the turn and ended up in a dry riverbed wash with highly limited views of the mountain we’d come to see. It was nice to get in a little exercise, but I wouldn’t recommend this over the actual trail.
My 3 
Doug’s
On our final day, Doug checked out one of the many mountain bike trails in the park exploring the back country and an abandoned mine. This ride also featured additional views of the Controbando Dome.
My bad attitude colored my experience at Big Bend Ranch State Park and I know it deserves another chance. The “Laredo” movie set location, the Closed Canyon slot canyon, the Dome Trail we inadvertently missed and its many mountain biking trails have the potential to be real kilt lifters! It’s obvious from Doug’s photos! It just didn’t happen for me during this particular visit.
