When people I know talk about Glacier National Park they describe it as the Holy Grail of US National Parks and a supposed hiker’s paradise!
Glacier was established in 1910 and still contains over 25 active glaciers. It is situated at the hydrological apex of North America, on the border of the US and Canada. This apex means water can flow from Glacier National Park into the Pacific, the Atlantic and the Arctic Oceans. In addition to its over 700 miles of hiking trails, it boasts more than 700 lakes, numerous waterfalls and two mountain ranges that spread across its 1 million acres. Aside from its breathtaking geological features and its array of wildlife, it also has some amazing history. The Going-to-the-Sun Road that cuts through the park from west to east is said to be an engineering marvel that not only offers spectacular views, but access to a multitude of diverse trails.
In 2020, we made our first attempt to visit Glacier, but Covid had all entrances but one shut down. making the park extremely crowded. Additionally, the red buses that traverse the west to east Going-to-the-Sun Road were not running and there’s a driving restriction on vehicles over 21 ft. long, 10ft. high and 8 ft wide (including mirrors). Lastly, several of the major trails were closed due to bear activity. The congestion in the few areas of the park that were open had us running for quiet wilderness. We spent less than a full day in Glacier and then bailed on the park altogether.
We tried again in the summer of 2021, but heavy smoke blocked nearly all of the mountain views and weather apps noted it was unsafe for outdoors activities, so again, we abandoned the park early.
In June of 2023 we made the trek from Billing, Montana to Glacier, determined to see its glacier-scoured mountains, pristine turquoise lakes and streams, thick ancient forests, and abundant wildlife. We entered the east side of Glacier, giddy with excitement and we were not disappointed.
It is said that the east side of Glacier National Park is drier, cooler and windier, but the base elevations are higher and the valleys are wider, which makes for some gorgeous scenery.
Here are some of the places we visited:
Cut Bank
At the end of a 5-mile side trip down a dirt road, sits the campground for this area and a trailhead. The abundant wildflowers in spring and summer are sure to draw you into at least one of the hikes in the area. For us, it was the first breathtaking view of all that Glacier has to offer.
Then we drove towards Two Medicine Lake.
Sinopah
This dramatic peak, named after the daughter of a Blackfeet Chief, sits like a king overlooking his subjects at the back of Two Medicine Lake. Boat tours on the lake are popular and the view from the shore makes for irresistible photography, even on a cloudy day.
Aster and Rockwell Falls in Two Medicine Pass
From Two Medicine Lake we did the Aster and Rockwell Falls hikes. We just loved the variety on these hikes. Sometimes we’d be hiking underneath a canopy of trees and then it would open up into pretty grasslands and flowers with towering peaks just ahead. We had to cross a swinging bridge (not my favorite thing to do), but it was worth it for the rugged mountain views that followed and the gushing waterfall where we turned around.
Going-to-the-Sun Road
The next day was cold and windy with gusts expected to be 25-30 mph. The information we had was that the red buses travelling up and over Going-to-the-Sun Road were not yet operational – too early in the season, so when Doug suggested a 25-mile round trip, 2200ft elevation gain, bike ride to the top of Going-to-the-Sun Road, I just wasn’t feelin’ it.
Doug, however, did take the ride and given his photographs and videos it feels like he saw a relatively-undisturbed example of what the Rocky Mountain region has been like for thousands of years. I’m still a little bitter that I turned down the opportunity and thus, determined to get back to see it for myself, but I’m sure glad Doug took the ride and enjoyed the adventure!
Red Rock Falls at Many Glacier
On the east side of Glacier, this renowned corner of the park (called Many Glacier) is celebrated for its giant peaks, stunning lakes, and tempting trails. Our hiking destination, Red Rock Falls, was not as spectacular as the journey which was full of wonderous views. On the way there and back, I could have stared out over those shimmering turquoise-colored lakes for hours. Kermit green plants of every variety lined much of the trail. The waterfall, while nothing spectacular, was a nice spot to have a backpacked lunch and turn around.
Despite just scratching the surface on this wonderful national park, it shocks me to know that as incredible as Glacier is, it barely cracks the top 10 most visited national parks (with about 3 million visitors per year), while the number one spot (Great Smoky Mountains) attracts 4 times as many visitors!
The east side is a quieter version of Glacier that seems particularly ripe for epic adventures and new discoveries. I’m looking forward to returning to this park as we enjoyed it profusely!
