Tony Bennet was a bit before my time, but I delighted in the friendship between Bennet and Lady Gaga. Wasn’t it amazing to see her bringing his music to a younger generation?
Well, visiting St. Petersburg, Florida was a bit like that. Once given the nickname “God’s Waiting Room” because of its vast number of retirees, this city has secretly been under renovation and its coming along great!
St. Pete’s is St. Petersburg’s newer, cooler nephew. Younger people and hipster businesses are moving in to its walkable downtown, bike-friendly neighborhoods, and eclectic old buildings as there is easy access to the arts, parks, beaches and scrumptious eateries. St. Pete’s has maintained their laid back vibe, high end homes along the water, and access to solid medical care, but even their shuffleboard club has become something of a hang-out. This mixed-demographic area has a lot going for it.
We had not done any research on the area before arriving as our main reason for stopping was to spend some time with a good friend of ours, Karen Norris. As a local, we knew that she’d provide us with the best tips on what to see and do and she did not disappoint. We started our day with brunch at a restaurant called “The Library“. The food was tasty, the floor to celling shelves around us were lined with books, and the check was tucked into a book brought to the table.
There are a handful of impressive art museums in St. Pete’s, but if you’re only there for a few days like we were, you must see the Salvador Dali Museum. Outside of his hometown in Europe, this is the world’s largest collection of the mustached artist’s work. The bulbus building along the waterfront is hard to miss and its over 1000 odd shaped windows make it even more fascinating from the inside. Displayed are over 2,000 different works donated by a single Dali collector. Dali’s stylistic progression was of note and the museum is doing some really interesting interactive displays that require use of your cell phone. Don’t miss a picture with the man himself at the end of the visit.
The next day, we’d hoped to check out the once famous roadside attraction, Sunken Gardens, but it was very crowded even for a Sunday. Instead, Karen drove us around town for a look at some of the homes that sit water’s edge, several with their own docks. She pointed out various things to see and do before we stopped for at another great meal downtown.
From Karen’s house on Monday, Doug and I hopped on our bikes and headed back to Sunken Gardens. In 1911, George Turner and his wife, who were avid gardeners, purchased a sinkhole property that they planned to fill in and then plant. They started with citrus trees and vegetables and soon opened a nursery and fruit stand. Although the fruit stand and nursery weren’t very popular, people loved the gardens, which the Turners continued to fill with large varieties of plants and flowers. In 1935, the Turners walled in their family home and garden and by December of 1936, the historic attraction was born. For just 15 cents, visitors could walk the gardens which grew to over 400 gardenia shrubs, 800 rose bushes, 700 azalea plants and nearly 30 species of palms.
In its heyday, starting in the 1950’s and continuing through the 1970’s, this was ranked among Florida’s top ten commercial attractions. This roadside attraction featured beauty pageants, exotic birds, visits from celebrities, and was advertised extensively on billboards.
With the arrival of Disney in Florida, by the mid to late 80s, tourists were diverted north to Orlando and the Sunken Gardens fell nearly abandoned, but in 1998, the city declared it a local landmark and saved it. Although small, it doesn’t feel that way. Around every turn (even in winter when we were there), we found beautiful plants, pretty paths, water features, a koi pond, flamingos, and merry little birds.
Flamingos at the Sunken Gardens
From the Sunken Gardens, we biked along the waterfront where we saw a dolphin, families picnicking in the Straub Park, and a pretty gulf side beach before reaching St. Pete’s Pier. This impressive 3,000 foot jetty into the bay provides a nice walking and biking space. There’s even a tram if you’d prefer. Along the route is installation art, a history museum, and several eateries. For us, the best part of the pier was the view looking back at the city.
Each evening we enjoyed some quality time with Karen, laughing about the past, talking about the future, and sharing tips on books, movies, and podcasts. It was so fun that even if the town had nothing going on, we would have enjoyed the visit with her. The fact that we were able to see world class art, view gorgeous gardens, and enjoy fantastic meals was icing on the cake.
I read an article recently that aptly characterized St. Pete’s as a place for the “newlywed or nearly dead”, which summed up its current state so well. It’s a town that’s growing and undergoing gentrification. Within the next 10 years, I’d be surprised if there was anything to tie it to its old nickname. This was one of our favorite areas of Florida. Thanks Karen, for inviting us, showing us around, and introducing us to your wonderful city!
