So many old fairytales take place in an enchanted forest overgrown with huge trees, deep green fields, and gurgling brooks. Enchanted. It’s probably the reason that camping in the desert never appealed to me, but we decided to meet my mom and stepdad, Darrel, at their self-built second home outside of Maricopa, AZ when we knew it would be Darrel’s last trip. Spending that time with him was extremely special and his love for the desert and its stark beauty made me realize “enchanted” isn’t just reserved for wooded areas.
He partially inspired us to spend the month of March 2021 exploring the desert’s beauty and we started with a bang at Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument in Arizona!
Yes, like all of Arizona’s deserts, the landscape has been commandeered by miles of squat, spiky plants but it also boasts rock formations that have a brutal beauty, iconic saguaro cactus, and large organ pipe cactus who’s thin prickly fingers stretch for the sky. My mom and Darrel were snowbirds from Montana (“Big Sky Country”) and the deserts of AZ, while very different from MT, have that “Big Sky Country” feel with views that stretch for miles.
The campground at Organ Pipe Cactus NP is perfect for vans and RVs. Our first night there we simply walked the “nature trail” that circles the campground and you can see from the photos, from day 1, the desert did not disappoint!
The next day we took a hike to an old mine. The well-cut trail had plenty of cholla, barrel cactus, organ pipe cactus, saguaro and the tinniest of wild flowers to entertain.
Cholla 
Barrel 
Oregon Pipe 
Saguaro 
Just a few miles from the campground is a mostly dirt road loop that’s worth the drive. There are also several hiking trails in this area. We chose one for its great rocky overlook. There were lizards, plenty of birds, and portions of the trail contain cactus so large it feels forest-like.
Day 3 flew by despite no specific activities planned. One thing we learned spending time with my mom and Darrel is that part of the wonder of Arizona is that the sunsets, with or without clouds, start and finish strong, making everything around them blush. Since we were well rested by evening, we decided to do a sunset hike. Just east of the campground is a loop trail that leads up the hill which had made a wonderful backdrop for the prior nightly fireworks. We hiked to the hilltop and with just a few other campers stood in awe of that night’s display. Yellows swapped for oranges that bled into reds. There were blue, pink and purple colors with at least a million others.
I guess the jury’s out on whether or not God exists but if not, there’s some other magic that emanates from sunrises and sunsets and their every changing river of colors, preventing mere mortals from truly capturing their glory or conveying the way they make you feel. Our feeble attempt is in the photos below, but really you had to be there.
On our last full day in Organ Pipe Cactus NP, we took a spectacularly beautiful 10 mile round trip bike ride that I almost didn’t take.
The Mexico border is only about 15 miles from the campground, portions of the wall are visible, border patrol has a large presence and there are an extraordinary number of warning signs posted about migration. I’ve never thought of myself as having any prejudices but realized I was wrong as this had me on edge, wondering if it would be safe to be out on bikes in the middle of nowhere.
The ride started on what looked like a well traveled, two-lane, dirt road. We’d gone no further than a few miles when a white Bronco blew by us kicking dust into our face. How rude! Behind the Bronco flew a border patrol pickup with a second round of face dirt. When we saw them next, border patrol had people out of the car, cuffed and sitting on the ground. Patrol waved us through. I was not feeling comfortable about continuing further from the campground on bikes when Doug asked me what kind of people I thought were immigrating. Based on the handcuffs and my prejudice, I was guessing criminals. Doug said I should really check the facts, recommended a great book called “American Dirt” by Jeanine Cummins, and reminded me that most people migrate due to life threatening circumstances, extreme poverty, violence, etc and it’s not the criminals (who are benefiting from these terrible circumstances) that are running…but those affected by it. He was right and we continued the ride.
The ride had stunning views, but during it, I also had time to think about our conversation on immigration and appreciate how fortunate I am just to have been born in free and wealthy country with lots of individual opportunity. The kind of opportunity that has allowed me to take a travel sabbatical and ride an e-bike through gorgeous landscapes all over the United States.
Step outside your comfort zone…pick up “American Dirt” (if you haven’t already) and give desert beauty a chance. Go to Organ Pipe Cactus National Park. I promise you’ll be enchanted!
