From Montreal (post here) we followed the Saint Laurent River north to reach Quebec City. Quebec City is not quite as bike friendly as Montreal, but it is still bike friendly and is also very walkable given its size (population 0.5M versus 1.7M in Montreal).
Quebec City is the only walled city in North America and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The upper town, known as Haute-Village, was originally developed for its military advantage and contains the Citadel an active military base, as well as the city’s iconic Chateau Frontenac hotel.
The lower town is accessed by steep streets, steep stairs, and/or a funicular. Here you’ll find Petit Champlain’s cobblestoned streets lined with bistros and boutiques along with several other wonderful places to visit.
It is one of the most romantic cities we’ve visited because like most European cities it is filled with wonderful architecture and picturesque streets around every corner.
We had only planned to be in Quebec City for one evening and two days, but we ran into a bit of trouble. Doug had lost a bike part that prevented him from connecting his front wheel so instead of riding into downtown we took some drives to local bike shops to see if they had it in stock. Quebec City, like Montreal, had huge, well stocked shops, but the part was not to be found. It was late in the afternoon and as we were leaving the parking lot of the last shop, we managed to rip the sidewall of one of our back RV tires (which were less than 7 days old)! Merde! Given that it was one of the dual back wheels we were able to limp back to the driveway of our Boondocker’s Welcome host. All tire stores were closed for the weekend and our host was so nice that he not only allowed us to stay our planned Friday night, but also Saturday and Sunday night as well. Plus, on the second day we were there he loaned Doug his personal bicycle so we could tour Quebec City as originally planned! We were surprised and grateful that he was so kind and helpful!
Having the whole weekend in Quebec City was a real treat. Here’s how we spent 3 days.
DAY 1 – OLD TOWN
Parc Montmorency
An Uber dropped us off near this park which is midway between upper town and lower town. After enjoying the park’s statues and views we made our way up the steeped curve street, window shopping as we walked towards Chateau Frontenac.
Chateau Frontenac
Constructed for the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1894, this esteemed hotel is the city’s most prominent landmark. It was once used as the meeting place for Churchill, Roosevelt, William L.M. King, Vice-Admiral Lord Mountbatten, US Chief of Staff General George C. Marshall, and others as they planned D-Day landings in Normandy. It’s said to be the world’s most photographed hotel. The buskers and gardens add to this romantic scene and its elevation affords amazing views across the city.
Petit Champlain
The funicular can take you down to the lower town, but we chose to take the stairs to Petit Champlain. Arguably the most beautiful area of the city, the narrow, cobbled streets zigzag between historic but well-maintained buildings. You’ll swear you’re in the heart of an old European City full of artisan shops, restaurants, art galleries, creperies, and clothing stores.
Place Royal
As you continue to stroll towards the water and through the lower town area you’ll eventually wind your way over to where it all began, Place Royal. In 1608 Samuel de Champlain erected a fur trading company post that soon grew into what is now Quebec City. This area contains the largest surviving ensemble of 17th and 18th-century buildings in North America.
Notre-Dame des Victoires
It’s here that the Notre-Dames des Victoires church faces the cobbled square with wonderful architecture, vibrant window boxes, and outdoor café’s that are alive with French-speakers, making it a wonderful spot to grab a bit to eat and just enjoy the European ambiance!
Quebec City Mural and St. Lawrence River
Walk off lunch by visiting the Quebec City Mural and then heading towards the St. Lawrence River to walk along the waterside.
DAY 2 – LA CITADELLE
Citadel
We bicycled first to the Citadel. This active military base is a star-shaped fortress protected by thick walls, ramparts and ditches that were built in 1832. It is the headquarters of the 22nnd Canadian Regiment, which formed at the beginning of WWI.
Just outside the entrance you can watch the changing of the guard and inside there’s an extensive military museum. We also took a guided tour that talked about its history and each of the buildings within its walls.
Be certain to walk the city walls for fantastic views of Quebec City.
Parc du Bastion-de-la-Reine
From the Citadel walls that looked out towards Chateau Frontenac we walked down to Parc du Bastion-de-la-Reine which is picture-perfect.
Fountaine de Tourny and Place de l’Assemblee-Nationale
Back on the bicycles we made our way through the streets, passing several of the walled gates and fortifications, to reach the Fountaine de Tourny and the Place de l’Assemblee-Nationale (the Parliament Building). Complete in 1877 this building has a Parisian feel and the gardens in the summer were stunning.
From here we simply meandered our way back to the RV, passing regal churches, old stone buildings, pretty parks with gardens, and streets lined with shops and eateries.
DAY 3 – MONTMORENCY FALLS
Montmorency Falls
Doug had taken a quick evening ride on my e-bike to Montmorency Falls which was about 10 miles to the east of our host’s location via well maintained bike paths. He enjoyed it so much that he shared it with me by driving to it on our way out of town.
This pretty waterfall is 50 percent taller than Niagara Falls. You can park near the top and walk down 400 steps to its bottom (or enter through the huge visitor center at the bottom of the falls and climb up). There’s a zipline over the falls but we didn’t do that.
When Monday arrived and the auto shops re-opened we were able to get a new tire put on the RV.
We were of course excited to resume our travel schedule, but there’s no doubt that Quebec City made a lasting impression on us both.
So which city in Quebec is better – Montreal or Quebec City? It’s a difficult choice. Montreal is much larger and bustling with plenty to see and do. It’s a wonderful mix of old traditions with a cosmopolitan vibe. With good planning you’ll discover many beautiful places. Quebec City is a slower paced, walkable city. It’s wonderfully romantic, very European, and with no planning you’ll happen across many beautiful places. Both reminded us of why we love to travel.
