There are a few ways to see Alaska – by boat, rail or car/RV. We are so lucky to have done a cruise up the Inside Passage in 2017 and to have the time and money now to see inland areas with the RV. Not only that but we have the time that made this next leg of the journey possible – the trip from Tok along the Taylor Highway through the town of Chicken to the Top of the World Highway and back down into the Yukon’s Dawson City. This is a drive that provides the sense of solitude that only the remote corners of Alaska can.
The Taylor Highway is a mix of paved and gravel sections, winding through dense forests and along ridges. The road is open from mid-May to mid-September, and even during these months, it can be challenging, with sharp turns, steep grades, and the occasional washout or landslide debris. There are a lot of guidebook warnings about using this road. We found the drive 70-plus-mile drive from Tok to Chicken relatively easy going at slow speeds, which wasn’t a problem since we maybe saw one or two cars the entire time.
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Chicken is a tiny (population 17), quirky, almost mythical town in the heart of Alaska’s wilderness with off-beat charm. The town, once populated by up to 400 at its peak, was named by gold miners who wanted to recognize the role the ptarmigan played in sustaining them during the rough winter, but thought it was to difficult to say and spell. Today, the town embraces its poultry-themed moniker with giant chicken statues, a “Chickenstock” music festival, and a general store that proudly sells all things chicken.
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As we left Chicken, the road dropped down into a pretty valley and then climbed, offering some wonderful views. It was only when we reached the flats again that Taylor Highway’s bad reputation caught up with us. The washboard here was as bad, maybe worse than that on the way to the Alvord Desert (post here) and I had some choice words about that drive as well! The vein popping out of my forehead was at maximum pressure by the time we reached our boondocking spot for the night, which was near the junction with Top of the World Highway. We would have had great views into the valley below if it hadn’t been for a bit of rain, low clouds and a massive amount of wind whipping through the valley and up past the RV, forcing us to retreat back from the edge of the gravel lot we were parked in.
Luckily, we woke to calm weather.
Top of the World Highway, aptly named, offers one of the most scenic drives in Alaska and the Yukon. The highway runs along a ridge for much of its length, providing panoramic views of the surrounding wilderness. The road is mostly gravel, and although it’s well-maintained, it requires cautious driving, especially in wet conditions. It’s along this highway that we crossed the U.S.-Canada border on July 27th. Just like that we left our Alaska summer behind and were back in Yukon territory as the road descended towards the Yukon River. Across this river was our next stop, the historic Dawson City.
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We didn’t drive every road in Alaska, but we did drive a lot of them, in full. Finishing off with these remote and rugged sections was a good way to end the Alaska journey. We were (c)lucky that we had the time to do this drive and we are unbelievably grateful for all that Alaska showed us – new family friends, awe-inspiring mountain ranges; stunning glaciers, lakes and streams; an abundance of wildlife; miles and miles of wildflower-lined roads; and memories to last a lifetime!
