As dawn breaks over the rugged Alaskan landscape, we found ourselves a little sad to leave the quaint town of Valdez, nestled within Prince William Sound, but also excited to board the ferry with the RV to Whittier. The ferry leaves early in the morning but its obvious that we’re going to have a beautiful day and with the snow-capped peaks of the Chugach Mountains looming large, there’s a touch of adventure in the air.
The Ferry Ride To Whittier
It seems like more RVs than expected were boarding as we were parked below behind the vans. I was asked to get out before getting it parked as my door and the side door were right up against the hull. Out of habit, Doug locked the RV and took the side door key with him, which created some worry about whether or not we’d be able to squeeze between the RV and the hull to unlock it when the ferry arrived in Whittier.
A lot of that angst disappears as the rhythmic lull of the ferry slicing through the water makes the ride serene. It glides past small islands and fjords and the deck offers panoramic views of the long mountain range. Otters and a single humpback whale, who really put on a show, added excitement to the journey.
Ferry Ride Videos
Downtown Whittier
Given the size of Whittier, it was surprising to see a large cruise ship pulled into its harbor. A spattering of little buildings line the waterfront. There’s a large waterfall that’s a short walk from the harbor and then there’s the Buckner Building, a cold war relic, on the hill overlooking the town.
This 1953 utilitarian looking building was designed to be a self-sufficient “city under one roof”, serving as a military outpost during the Cold War. At the time, it was seen as a modern marvel. As tensions between the US and Russia eased, the building was eventually abandoned. Over the decades, the building fell into disrepair and its concrete structure, once a symbol of military might, became weathered and disheveled. It remains a prominent but eerie landmark in Whittier and stands in stark contrast to the natural surrounding beauty.
The Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel to Portage Lake
The 2.5-mile Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, carved through solid rock, is the longest highway tunnel in North America and serves as the only land access to Whittier. Since we arrived in Whittier by ferry, driving through the tunnel brings you to the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center in the Chugach National Forest.
The tunnel was build during WWII as a railroad tunnel to provide access to Whittier. Trains and cars can go through it but it’s a single lane so operates on a timed schedule. Traffic is held on either side until the scheduled time. Driving through the tunnel is an exhilarating experience. The narrow passageway, dimly lit by overhead lights, creates a sense of entering another world. The walls of the tunnel are rugged and imposing, a testament to the engineering marvel that it is. Emerging from the tunnel, we’re quickly met with Portage Lake which is fed by Portage Glacier.
The road wraps around the lake and deposits travelers at the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center, which was a surprisingly informative stop. The exhibits provide fascinating insights into the geology, wildlife, and human history of the area. Interactive displays, films, information on a variety of different topics and current information on trail status make this a wonderful stop for visitors of all ages.
Tunnel drive videos
Williwaw Campground in Portage Valley
The visitor center told us the very popular Byron Glacier Trail was closed due to bear activity, so we had planned to cycle the Trail of Blue Ice instead, but sadly, we had heavy rains both days we were here and neither of us carry the gear to ride comfortably in that kind of weather.
We managed a short nature walk where we saw a lot of bear scat, but no bears, which was fine with me.
Although the weather and bears put a damper on outdoor activities in Portage Valley, the ferry ride from Valdez to Whittier, a drive through the longest highway tunnel in North America, the glacier-fed Portage Lake, and the informative stop at the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center made this leg of the trip an adventure.
